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The key to the Mescalito's success is that it is extremely supportive, which offers you comfort whilst on long approaches and a positive platform to press off whilst on technical terrain. The sole is a good all-rounder for the variety of terrain we encounter on a typical UK day mountain crag approach or scrambling round, too. They're not light, but neither are they designed to be. If you want something lighter then these aren't the shoes for you; if you're looking for support and protection for your feet then look no further. In spite of their weight I've never regretted wearing them on a big day out.
Having previously tested the mid-height version of the Drom Tech, and got on well with them, I was excited to try out the lower-cuff approach shoe. The Mid version is ideal for trekking, hillwalking and easy scrambling and balances durability with comfort and technical ability. The approach shoe offers much the same, but thanks to being a bit lighter I've used it more as an actual approach shoe for climbing in the UK, as well as the odd hillwalk.
The sole handles a range of terrain well, with its lugs providing solid braking on both muddy grass and dusty paths. On technical rock like Torridonian sandstone and Cairngorm granite, the Vibram outsole has shown no early signs of wear after several months of use, which impresses me. The EVA midsole provides good underfoot comfort, though I found the Mid version more comfortable, likely due to fit and lacing issues (which I'll come onto) rather than the sole, as both share the same construction.
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Underfoot the shoe has a lot of structure and offers good support for all day walking and scrambling. The Miura GTX isn't a totally flat approach shoe, and feels more like a walking shoe in sole shape, which helps when walking longer distances.
Underfoot there's a robust sole unit that ably blends durability and grip, which is a tricky thing to balance. Everyone wants durability, but nobody wants to slip around everywhere with a hard wearing rubber compound. On the flipside, everyone wants grip, but nobody wants their shoes to wear out too quickly. Considering the use I've given mine they've lasted amazingly well, and thanks too to their sufficiently deep tread they have worked well throughout a wide variety of different environments, from wet grass, mud and heather through to rock and scree.
The Mescalito is something of a cult classic, although ironically this is the first pair I've owned. As a fan of its lighter weight cousin - the Crux - I was interested to see what extra the Mescalito brought to the table - and it brings a lot. Having now owned a pair it's safe to say I'll never look back. It's hard to make a supportive approach shoe that doesn't feel clunky, but Scarpa have achieved it here. Add into the mix the fact that they're great on technical terrain, incredibly well made, and will likely last multiple resoles, and this is an even more attractive option.
But what about steeper ground? Well, while it's a little softer and more flexible at the toe than some of its really stiff rivals, its balance of smearing and edging ability makes it a brilliant all-rounder, performing well from scrambling up into low grade rock climbing. For trips with both distance and technical ground, like the Cuillin Traverse, the TX4 EVO would be my personal first choice.
The outstanding build quality should mean years of life, and hence you'll be buying fewer shoes. As and when the sole eventually wears out they can be resoled and given a new lease of life.
The shoe's synthetic Putek upper, commonly used in work boots, provides excellent abrasion resistance, much like the Mid version. Paired with the durable rubber rand, this makes it ideal for jamming your foot on technical approaches or scrambles without worrying about wear. Not everyone is a fan of waterproof approach shoes, but here you do get a lining (in this case Sympatex rather than the all-conquering Gore-Tex). This ensures breathable waterproofing. While waterproof linings in shoes are a Marmite feature, I do think it's good for those boggy mountain crag approaches, and the lightweight synthetic upper helps keeps your feet dry and cool. If you're not a fan of waterproof shoes then unfortunately Boreal don't offer an un-lined alternative.
The Miura comes in both men's and women's (lower volume) versions. In the scheme of things this is a low-volume shoe even for men, with a lacing system that clamps down close on your foot. The laces come all the way down the shoe giving a close technical fit at the front end, and a good range of adjustment. I particularly like the attention to detail in the top lacing eyelets that are backed up with cord to add extra stability and durability. But it also has a toe box that isn't restrictive, and when it comes to width I would say it's a regular fit. In terms of sizing, they are on the small side. I'm normally a UK 8.5, but would have suited a UK 9 here. As with all footwear you've not worn before, try it before you buy it.
Robust, supportive, and with a decent all-terrain tread, the mid-cut version of Boreal's technical approach shoe is built to last, says Rob Greenwood, and should be a good investment for anyone seeking a more substantial option for mountain use...
Approach shoes vary from light and flexible to solid and supportive, and in this Group Test we're looking at models that offer more support and protection, since these are arguably best suited to all-round UK use including mountain days.
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Capable on rough ground and confidence inspiring on scrambles and climbs, the TX4 has been a popular model for some years, with the original version doing well in our last approach shoe group test back in 2019. Having already hit a winning formula La Sportiva have run with it, and the changes they've made in the EVO, whilst modest, are advances on a design that already felt hard to beat.
The midsole has a dual density EVA construction creating plenty of stiffness but with a nice amount of mid-forefoot flex for a less clumpy feel when walking. It comes with a chunky-lugged Vibram sole that uses the XS Trek compound; this rubber is less sticky on dry rock than some compounds, but has better durability and good traction across various surfaces. One other noticeable difference on the Miura is that there is no flat 'climbing zone' at the front, but instead three tooth-style lugs designed to grip grass and mud, which when it comes to climbing up damp grass slopes is pretty handy. Whether you will miss the standard flat climbing zone on the front will come down to personal preference, and what type of approaches you tend to do.
Given their weight I had actually expected to notice them more than I have, but more often than not the only thing I've noticed is how comfortable they are - and not how heavy. Perhaps the one exception to this might be when hanging them from a harness while climbing, when the Mescalito are likely to feel a fair bit heavier than some alternatives.
The first thing you'll notice is the build quality. This is very clearly a shoe made for mountain use. You get a robust leather upper, and this is reinforced with a chunky rand for extra durability and rigidity, and increased wet ground protection. A good sized rubber toe cap provides plenty of protection from rocks and any other objects you might accidentally kick.
Kayland is a brand we don't see a lot in the UK, but it has a long heritage of making technical footwear for climbers and mountaineers, and the Miura GTX continues that legacy. This is a robust approach shoe designed to tackle rough mountain terrain, and while it may not match the technical performance on steeper terrain of some models on test, it's a very capable all-rounder.
The Alnasca Knit III Low GTX has been around for a few years and appears to have worked through several changes in this time. The latest iteration has a Vibram sole (formerly Michelin) with a heel brake (absent on earlier versions), a new lacing system and a slightly different tongue. What is the same is its general low-rise fit, and its distinctive knitted fabric. It seems to be quite a different shoe from its predecessor, considering it has the same version number. That said, the new model is if anything more appealing than ever as a robust and versatile approach shoe for use over all types of mountain terrain. While it may not quite match the performance of some models when it comes to climbing and scrambling, its comfort and all-round ability are up there with the best.
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Pros: Solidly built, and perform well on technical ground Cons: Lacing can loosen annoyingly. No women's version. Not as light as advertised Weight: 978g/pair size 43 or 750g/pair size 41*
The Alnasca shoes come in at 784g for my size 8 pair (Mammut say 760g for a pair of 8.5). At under 800g for the pair, they're the lightest on test - an advantage if you're hanging them from your harness on a multipitch route, and great for general nimbleness on a long walk-in. Yes they feel light on the feet, yet this doesn't detract from their overall robustness. Best of both worlds!
Cool and light, but really well made, it's hard to find fault with the Velocissima shoe, says Rob Greenwood - particularly on more...
The key element I like about these shoes is the chunky sole unit. This has been designed to walk in, which is surprisingly something that often gets overlooked in approach shoes which can have a tendency to focus heavily on their ability to scramble and climb on rocky terrain at the expense of comfort and security on the way to the crag. The main focus of the Miura GTX is grip and stability underfoot, no matter what the surface.
With its leather upper, protective wrap-around rand and high build quality, the TX4 EVO is - like its predecessor - a robust shoe, but one that doesn't overdo the stiffness. Its combination of walking comfort and on-the-rock ability is really impressive, and I'm equally happy to wear them for mountain crag approaches, scrambling days and just plain hillwalking.
Mammut say that these are manufactured according to Fair Wear standards, which works to ensure fair and safe working conditions in garment factories. The non-profit engages directly with factories, trade unions, NGOs and governments to protect workers' rights.
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This shoe also has a Gore-Tex lining, and unlike some models there's no unlined alternative. Waterproof linings in summer shoes can divide opinion - even in the review team. For me they're an advantage in the UK as our ground tends to be on the wetter side for most of the year, particularly if you're walking to a mountain crag; but if you're not keen then it may be unfortunate that Kayland don't offer this shoe in an unlined version.
Lighter and more nimble than traditional boots, more supportive and capable on steep ground than a trail shoe, approach shoes are not just for approaching climbs, as the name implies, but have a multitude of possible uses. Whether you're heading for a hard-to-reach mountain crag, out on a scrambling circuit, or doing some via ferrata, this may be your footwear of choice. With a close fit and a decent sole, approach shoes can work well for easy multi pitch climbing too; while at the other end of the scale, a comfy pair might be just the thing for a relaxed day's hillwalking. And most of us will inevitably end up wearing them down the pub. They're nothing if not versatile.
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I'm sure this has been covered before (in terms of rock shoe prices), but is it just me looking at these and wondering how they cost best part of £200?
The TX4 EVO is available in a Gore-Tex version, but we've been using the unlined model, which has a good breathable tongue for comfort on warmer days, making it arguably the better option for summer. Even with the non-waterproof version the leather can shrug off a bit of light moisture, so in wet vegetation the shoe will not instantly saturate.
The Mission XP and Technician Leather are light approach shoes with sticky soles which are precise for climbing. While they lack the wet ground grip and overall support you might want for UK scrambles and mountain crag...
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*I get 978g on the home scales for my pair of size UK 9. I'm a little disappointed with this, since Boreal state 750g for UK 7, and an extra 30% weight between two UK sizes seems a bit of stretch. We had a similar experience with the Drom Mid Tech, so it's worth being aware of this if considering these for their advertised light weight, since this figure may be doubtful. These are among the heaviest shoes on test, but even so when hanging off my harness they don't feel excessive, and the weight is less a concern when you're actually wearing them. Given how tough they are, the weight is fair.
Pros: Solid build quality. Great for long mountain approaches/walks Cons: Not the most technical for high-end scrambling and rock climbing. Only available with Gore-Tex lining. Weight: 890g/pair size 42.5
Unfortunately Boreal don't offer a women's specific fit for the Drom Tech. I opted for size 9 to match my street shoe size, as with the Mid-height version. Here's the good: the width seems pretty average to match my foot, and the shoes are neither too tight, nor too wide across the length of the foot. This midrange fit should suit a lot of users, though as ever you'll have to try before you buy - especially perhaps if your feet are on the broad side. I find the toe box provides a bit of wiggle room for the toes to avoid them bashing up against the front of the boots when walking downhill.
It may look nice, but the Prime is undermined for typical UK use by its soft midsole and flat outsole. "Whilst the term...
The Alnasca ticks all the essential boxes for an approach shoe designed for more demanding mountain use, being solid but comfortable, stable on all terrain, and hard-wearing.
Shoes with maximum support and protection, aimed at tougher and more technical terrain, from classic UK scrambles to easy Alpine rock climbs. Ideal for: a summer Cuillin Ridge traverse or a Dolomites via ferrata.
In this review we've opted not to award 'Highly Recommended' or 'Best in Test'. All the shoes we've looked at here have proved to be very good - albeit with differing strengths and weaknesses. Ultimately the one that's best for you is the one that best fits. Try not to fixate on a particular shoe until you've had a chance to wear several different models in a shop, because as ever with footwear, fit is absolutely key.
There isn't an excessive amount of padding, which - if the fit is right - means your feet shouldn't get overly sweaty, but this spartan feel does slightly reduce the comfort for me around the ankle (something I didn't notice as much in the Mid version).
Some flatter-soled approach shoes fall down (and so do you) on the soggy muck that Britain does so well, but the TX4 EVO is a real all-terrain model. Its studded sole offers an effective grip on grass as well as rock, and a notable improvement over the original on muddy descents is a more pronounced heel ledge for increased downhill traction. There's plenty of foot support on rough terrain, and a good degree of cushioning for all-day comfort even pounding along hard-packed tracks.
Pros: Supportive, grippy and durable - a superb all-rounder Cons: The most expensive on test. Not as light as advertised Weight: 979g/pair size 44 or 780g/pair size 42 *
Though the cuff is not hugely padded I find my heel is held firmly in place with absolutely no lift when walking uphill or edging, and at the same time there's no uncomfortable pressure on the achilles. The arch of the foot is gently but firmly supported too, which feels like a benefit for big days on your feet compared to a flatter-soled shoe.
The main improvement over virtually all the other approach shoes I have used is the excellent sole, which has a confidence inspiring grip on wetter ground. The current version of the sole is made from quality Vibram, and it has a great aggressive tread that bites reassuringly in softer ground. The approach shoe trend of relying on friction rubber is great when on dry rock, but grass, wet rock and an old pair worn down to a featureless rubber rapidly show up the shortcomings of this design, perhaps especially in the UK where wet ground and steep greenery are the norm rather than the exception. No such problem with the Alnasca, which also has the extra bonus of having a substantial heel brake for greater downhill security. Despite never having thought one was needed in the past, I doubt I will consider another pair of approach shoes without a heel breast in future. The front section does have a smoother friction section for use on rock scrambles. Underfoot there's plenty of cushioning and bounce for comfortable walking on hard-packed tracks.
The knitted Gore-Tex lined upper is fully synthetic. It has a solid feel and is splash-resistant for sure although the comparatively low height of the ankle cuff means that your exposed ankles are close to the ground, so you will get wet feet in anything a bit boggy. I have always been happy with waterproof-lined shoes, but some people find them a little sweaty. For those who prefer, the Alnasca is also available unlined at £160.
At 960g for a pair of 47 (La Sportiva say 810g/pair size 42) the TX4 EVO is a touch heavier than the original, probably thanks to its slightly more substantial sole. They're weightier than beefy trail shoes such as the Raptor, too, but while you might notice this when they're hung off your harness I can't say it has ever bothered me on the feet. The weight is comparable to other models in this review.
Pros: A fantastic combination of support on rough ground, all day comfort, and performance on the rock Cons: Very few Weight: 810g/pair size 42
At 890g a pair in size UK 8.5 (EU 42.5) the Miura GTX is not a bad weight for a shoe that has a chunky sole unit and a robust and protective upper. They might feel a bit heavy and bulky when you're carrying them up a multi-pitch route, but you'll probably appreciate the stability and comfort on the walk back to the car after a long day in climbing shoes.
The downside is the lacing, which has caused me fit issues not present in the Mid version. The laces tend to loosen as I walk, unlike the Mid, which has a catch in the final fasteners. This leads to heel lift and my foot shifting side to side around the ankle. If my heels and ankles were wider this might not be a problem, but as it stands, it makes longer or multi-day use uncomfortable or faffy if you're often having to stop and re-tie the laces.
The Drom Tech include the internationally recognised V-Label as a vegan product. They are also manufactured in-house in Spain.
The uppers consist of a hard wearing and water resistant suede, which is reinforced with a broad rubber rand around the front and sides, then a PU rand around the back and sides to provide further protection from all angles. The end result is something really durable, although perhaps unsurprisingly it does take a while to dry if you manage to wet the shoe out in long grass or stand in a bog! A waterproof-lined model is also available.
My initial impression was that the low ankle cuff could be a problem in conjunction with the sole's stiffness, but this was rapidly dispelled in use as the shoe became a little less stiff. The benefit of the low ankle becomes apparent in the ease with which you can get them on and off - great for cragging - and the comfort in day-to-day use.
This shoe comes in both men's and women's (lower volume) sizes. We'd call them mid-width and mid-volume; I have a pretty standard foot width and they have been perfect for me.
*Scarpa quote 780g for a pair in size 42, but this seems very ambitious since our experience suggests they're a fair bit heavier. At 979g (size 44) on our home scales they're not nearly that light; but then neither are they designed to be.
For me the standout quality of the Drom Tech is its solid, robust build, combined with a slim, low-profile design that offers a nimble feel despite the overall durability and support on offer. Underfoot is a chunky sole which balances stiffness for edging when on technical terrain, with enough flexibility to provide comfort when walking.
Pros: A lightweight all rounder of a shoe shoe, featuring a superb sole for the full variety of mountain terrain Cons: Not the most technical model for high-end scrambling and rock climbing Weight: 784g/pair size 42
Due to the full length lacing the Mescalito has the ability to fit quite a wide range of feet, as you've got the ability to make adjustments the whole way down to the toe. That said, these aren't a narrow shoe and are probably best suited towards medium to wide feet. They're also available in both men's (high volume) and women's (low volume) models, but as we always like to remind people - men can have low volume feet and women can have high volume feet, so go with whichever fits you best.
It's light and cool for summer, but though the Fuel is Black Diamond's most capable approach shoe, it's not a great choice...
Coming in both men's and women's (lower volume) versions, the TX4 EVO follows in the footsteps of its predecessor in terms of fit, with a broad and rounded toe box that accommodets a bit of foot spread over a long day. The forgiving front end may particularly suit wider-footed users and anyone who has struggled with too-pointy approach shoes in the past. On my wide feet they're the best fit of any approach shoe I've tried, allowing me to enjoy long days, not just endure them. I wore them brand new for a spring backpacking and scrambling overnight on Suilven, with zero issues, a comfort test they've been acing ever since. Lacing extends far towards the toe, which might help make them viable for those with narrower feet too.