I wanted to use pneumatic wide tires but I’ve not found the right tires yet but I’d like to build another one. Time is an issue for me but I do enjoy the challenge.

We have an extensive range of original Ferrari parts for sale for most models from over the last 30 years – from Ferrari 599 GTO air systems to Ferrari Monza ...

First, I’m sorry for not replying to the recent post. I always reply but I didn’t and I’m sorry. I’m not sure why I didn’t see the post but I didn’t.

I want to use a RC channel from my RC radio. I want to have center off, full one side would be up and full to the other side will be down.

I’ve been doing a ton of research trying to figure out how to build something almost identical to this. I’m a mechanical engineering student working on a senior design project. I have a couple questions for you, if you feel like enlightening me. (=

わり5%OFFカテゴリクーポンをチェックトラノテなら10762 5000x30ステンレスツルダブルロックシリンダー 30mm 1(ノーブランド)がおい

The Smith Environmental Quiet One Profile Series PSU15 11000 BTU @ 180F fan convector is a slim attractive surface mounted unit with a base skirt which allows the heater to be wall or floor mounted. All units feature a two position max. off min. switch with internal fan aquastat for individual heater control. A BTU per hr range from 3000 BTU per hr to 23000 BTU per hr depending on which model you choose the PSU10 PSU15 or the PSU23 gives a fast efficient way to heat a room while using a minimum of wall space. A pleasing neutral light grey paint finish is ideal for many decors. This high grade finish may be used as is or may be field painted wall papered or marbleized. The wooden ends of the cabinet are particle board with a flat primer like finish and paintable. Known to some contractors as the Quiet One the Smiths Environmental Profile Series PSU-15 fan convector is ideal for porches sun room additions entry ways cellars garages mudrooms and walk-in closets to name but a few. Also Available in larger outputs in a PSU30 and PSU40 Models. Please read the attached specification sheet for more information on Smith Enviromental Products.

2024728 — Page 2 Read 069. start a family or start a war from the story WHITE FLAG ▹ potter by illisius (A.) with 421 reads. halfbloodprince, ...

One last thing about the brakes. If you were to set these on a separate channel and with the brakes on you then applied power to the motors you may harm the motors. In the configuration of 4 motors probably not but just don’t test it. The schematic I attached works very well and if I recall I used about 1.5 amp diodes from Radio Shack.

... Cable Ties · Plates · Garvin · Hardware · Heat Shrink · Mag Daddy · Tape · Velcro · RESOURCES · VIDEOS · BLOGS · FAQs · Pair Solid Cables · Triad Stranded ...

Sabertooths are the norm when it comes to mobile robots. If you want something more rugged / industrial / versatile consider RoboteQ.

If you follow the flow of electrons you’ll see that as soon as the Sabertooth goes forward or reverse it will provide energy to the brakes and release them. As soon as the sabertooth is back to neutral the energy is no longer present at the brakes and they lock down. Wheelchair_Brakes.jpg525×604 30 KB

Βρες Σκαμπό Κουζίνας με Πλάτη Μεταλλικό Laser Κίτρινο 101011110 στο Skroutz. Δες χαρακτηριστικά και διάβασε χρήσιμα σχόλια, κριτικές & ερωτήσεις χρηστών για ...

Controllers provide 180 degree throw adjustment and volume control. Linear Slot Diffuser. RAYMON DONCO. TITUS. ML. HPL. 24 gauge galvanized steel ...

This organization is not BBB accredited. Medical Equipment in Aurora, OH. See BBB rating, reviews, complaints, & more.

Is there any way to figure out the continuous current used by each motor, as well as the stall current? The 2x60A is quite powerful, but it’s best to check the motor’s specs just in case. If it’s not listed on the motors, then you may want to contact the manufacturer.

I am using a good RC system with 4 channels and a memory in the receiver that when loss of signal the unit returns to “0”. At “0” no power is going to the brakes and so they would be on. I had considered using a third channel and a relay that would cut power to the brakes and then the brakes would be on. After a lot of testing I’ve concluded I don’t need it. I’ve tried to loose the unit but I’ve not been able to. The RC I’m using also mates too a transmitter so if someone else had the same one they still would not be able to control the unit.

You can calibrate the speed of the motors with the sabertooth and a add on board, look on their site for information. I’ve never driven a wheel chair but I have an idea based on how my bot works that you need constant control to maintain a heading. With the settings on the remote controller I can get close to straight but terrain makes it impossible to go straight. Everything makes a difference and if the motors are moving at the same speed you’ll still have differences right down to tire diameter being off.

Shop at PartSource alternative in Canada. Discount on PartSource Canada. Discover partsource ca & PartSource near me. Explore partsource auto parts.

One thing I don’t like about the Sabertooth, it resets everytime you turn the power on/off. So, if you have the remote control trigger pulled a little bit it will show that point as neutral when you turn the power on to the Sabertooth. I’ve never been able to figure this out and it’s dangerous. In the beginning I had found that with less power to the Sabertooth if you draw enough current while moving the Sabertooth will reset and now you have lost control. It’s not an issue with enough current to keep the voltage up enough to the Sabertooth but I wish DE could have done this differently. In other motor controllers I’ve used power on/off and current draw is not an issue.

What is the short list of electronics used in this project? I’m going to build something similar. 2 drive wheels, mixing to make it go left and right. doesn’t need to skidsteer.

Because I wanted it to lift very heavy objects it also made it harder to have movable steering. I’ve had a lot of weight in mine without a problem.

Buck Converter (to maintain regulated 24V out of batteries): [ebay.com/itm/like/271839425648?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82]

The stall current of the motors will probably be to much for the smaller sabertooth. If you consider the mounted controls you could get a wheel chair controller and just reconfigure the controls. If you’ve ever seen the walk around pallet lifts they use in stores, that’s my idea.

I have a new use for it, carrying and dumping dirt. I have added a removable aluminum dump box that is over 7 CU-FT. It fits inside the yardbot and doesn’t require removal of the original box or sides.

I started off by buying 2 motors off of ebay from an old electric wheelchair with these specs: Max Speed: 5 mph Range: Up to 20 miles Motor: DC 24V, 180W, 4250 rpm (2 Motors, 10" Rear Driven, 8" Front Casters) Controller: Dynamic DL 50A Battery: 12V 22NF x2 Weight: 197.5 lbs Capacity: 300 lbs Things I have thus far:

You need more basics. Their are four wires on these wheelchair motors, two are colored red and black and these are for power to the motor. The second two are white and they are the brake wires in my diagram. The motors have brakes that are on unless a current is provided to the white wires. The brakes are simple magnetic brakes and their is no reason to remove them.

Below is a rough sketch I made. Can I do that? Or is it more complicated? I apologize in advance for the ignorant questions, but I am, in fact, ignorant on this subject.

Buy Olympus America Inc. MAJ-891 ISOLATED IRRIGATION/FORCEPS PLUG WITH 10 PACK BIOPSY VALVE at PartsSource. Largest Online marketplace for Medical Equipment ...

I am building a rig very similar to yours. I also have the motors with the dynamic brakes. I do not, however understand your schematic. I’m quite good at the mechanical aspects (Mechanical Engineer), but the electronics still trip me up. Basically, I also need to keep the brakes active while bypassing the old wheelchair control box. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi …Jongig has been great in responding. I will see if I can add my newbie two cents here. As I understand it the brakes are only activated when no power comes to them. So looking at my connectors on my motors …there are the power leads for the motors as well as the power leads for the brakes (all in the original wheelchair connector). It seems that Jongig felt it necessary to put rectifying diodes in the connection for the brakes. Although I don’t understand why this is necessary since the original installation in the wheelchair did not have these. I am wondering if I could not just hook them up to the Sabretooth just like they were hooked up to the wheelchair power supply and controller …with the Sabretooth taking the place of the wheelchair controller.

I was able to think that I could use two battle switches. The first would be on/off and the second would be up/down but this would require two channels. It might be possible to use the battle switches to turn voltage on in one direction and the other to turn voltage on plus activate a relay to reverse the voltage.

I also re-read the post asking about the diodes in my breaking schematic, the diodes are required and the breaks will not work correctly without them.

The yard-bot has been a great tool for around the house and I’ve not had to do any maintenance to it. My wife gets a kick out of me because I put a egg crate on it, load it up with tools from inside the house and ride to wherever I need to work. It might even be part of the reason I’m gaining weight. The yard-bot is also a great tool for moving my 10 foot trailer around the yard, even when full.

My Bubba jr. is very useful but there is a couple things that I considered but was unable to engineer out. First is I wanted it to be very exact in how it moved since it’s being used inside and out. The 4-wheel locked wheels I used works but it does take a lot more power to turn and due to the weight it will rip up the lawn, I can’t turn quickly. I would have like to articulate the steering. I considered 4-wheel with a yoke in the middle and steering similar to a wagon. If you were to build this as a project with the consideration for the public I think the steering with handle mounted controls would work best. I’d even consider putting the brakes back on since that’s one of the best designs of the unit. I use mine with a small ladder in the basement and with the brakes locked it can’t move.

mr.hxso (@mr.hxso) в TikTok (тикток) |34K лайк.1121 подписч.▪️ སྤྲུལ་པ sprul pa ▪️.Смотрите новое видео пользователя mr.hxso (@mr.hxso).

I’ve been using my design without any problems and I’ve since built a dump body that sits in the bed of the vehicle and has a electric ram for dumping. I don’t see that I can add a picture so you’ll have to contact me and I’ll send you the picture.

I used 2.5 inch square tube steel, probably could have used 2.5 by 1.5 inch. The reason for the 2.5 inch width was so that based on the bolt pattern of the motors I could mill out the tube steel frame and mount the motors directly to the frame.

Jomar products make’s a electronic double switch. I will use this with a DPDT relay and a SPST relay. At the extreme high side of the stick the dump will go up and at the extreme low side the dump will go down. At middle stick the dump will not move.

Of course it helps ! I thank you for all the great info. And what you described is what I thought. But just to be sure …in your diagram M1,M2 are M1,M2 on the Sabretooth …and the circle with the M in it is the actual motor. I am not sure how you are then wiring up the brakes for power …unless they too are connected to M1/M2 on the Sabretooth. I will have to look at my motors again but I only recall the positive and negative for power for them coming out of the motors. Which means to me that there must be some wiring internally for the brakes to get their power. I have not opened up the brakes to take a look yet…so they may be just like you are describing and I will have to look at your digram at that time and figure out how to wire in the diodes. With all this said …if the wheelchair already had a breaking arrangement with the brakes etc. Why did you feel the need to wire in the diodes …why couldn’t I just connect the motors as if they were connected to the wheelchair? Wouldn’t that accomplish the same thing? Again …since you have been through this and are more knowledgeable I thank you for helping a newbie here.

Attached is a picture of the wiring as requested. It doesn’t show the actual connections but after a couple years of use it still works perfectly and it gets used a lot in the summer. I have a chair I put in it and along with whatever tools I can drive myself to where I need to go. I weigh 200 pounds. I recently used it to bring a milling machine into my house in two pieces. The total of the two pieces was 1,100 pounds, not sure what each piece weighed but I’ll bet the one piece was 700 pounds. The tires were crushed a little but it functioned flawlessly. I also made a electric operated dump body that goes in and out. It plugs into the unit and then the one channel on the remote sends it up to where it shuts off automatically or down to where it stops automatically. I sure do love this yardbot which is now named Bubba-jr. Bubba-Jr.jpg1200×800 180 KB DumpBody.jpg1200×800 180 KB Wiring-3.jpg1200×800 266 KB Wiring-1.jpg1200×800 176 KB

Hello, new to the forum and I am working on a similar project. I would like to compare what I am doing with your schematic. I keep looking for the attached schematic that was mentioned but I cant see it. I was trying to interface with the wheelchair controller and had some success but I decided to dump it and get the sabertooth for better control and less safety dumping of the wheelchair controller. Any help will be appreciated with the schematic. Thank you.